- Hempex is a lightweight synthetic rope that looks like Hemp, much easier to look after, just wash and hang to dry.
(Hempex is sold straight from the roll, which is how I keep it so cheap. It can be quite stiff when brand new but it softens considerably with use or after it's first wash).
- Hemp is the traditional choice, a natural-fibre rope that looks great but needs to be stretched then oiled after washing.
While the hempex and cotton are sold off-the-roll, hemp goes through a lot of processing before it's ready for use.
- SuperSoft Hemp is our 6mm hemp that has been softened much further than the standard hemp, giving a much softer rope.
- Cotton (white) is a popular rope due to it's softness and ease of care, just wash as for cotton clothing. It's a natural fibre but doesn't need oiling.
- Synthetic ropes (other than Hempex) are also available, I sell but don't stock a great range of braid-on-braid synthetic ropes which are available in a limited number of colours.
I stock the following rope thicknesses:
- 6mm is the most popular thickness, that's what you will normally see on Japanese-style bondage.
- 8mm is more common in Western bondage, in my opinion it looks better on men or larger ladies due to the slightly thicker rope.
- 10mm+ is rarely used due to the thickness and weight, but I can specially order it. I do have some ~20mm and thicker ropes which is used occasionally for my photography.
Dyed / Coloured Rope
Natural fibre ropes
can be dyed relatively easily and I offer a dying service
for our cotton and hemp ropes. If you wish to dye your ropes yourself using my method, you need one standard packet of Dylon Machine Dye per 40m of rope (for most colours, I use one packet per 20m for black to ensure a deep black), some salt (common table salt is fine, check instructions for quantity), some washing machine cleaner (or household chlorine bleach), some laundry bags (mesh bags, can be omitted but ropes will tangle), and around 7 hours of washing machine time.
- - Coil your ropes individually into a chain sinnet and place each rope into it's own laundry bag.
- - Wash at 40c (standard cotton cycle, not economy cycle, typically ~2hrs) with detergent but no softener/conditioner, slow spin (~600rpm).
- - Add the dye and salt directly to the washing machine and run the same cycle again.
- - Add detergent, and for cotton softener/conditioner (you can use softener/conditioner on hemp ropes too if you don't want to oil them), same 40c cycle.
- - Uncoil your ropes and run them through your hands a couple of times from end to end, stretching as you go. Don't let all of the kinks unwrap, use tension to force the twists back into the lay of the rope.
- - Let cotton rope hang to dry over a door or similar (I use a radiator drying rack fixed to the top of an open door which gives a good 6 feet/couple of metres of height/length for the ropes to dry.
- - Hemp rope can be dried the same way but needs to be stretched by hand 2-3 times during the drying process, or you can use weights to tension while drying.
- - Run either a maintenance cycle (if your machine has one) or a hot cycle with either washing machine cleaner or bleach and laundry detergent to remove any left-over dye and rinse-out any rope fibres.
- - Clean the washing machine drain filter and manually remove any signs of dye from the inside of the machine (inside folds of the door seal) using a kitchen cleaner or similar and a mildly abrasive sponge or similar. Wipe clean with paper towels, then it's safe for clothing again. I routinely do my usual laundry after dying ropes using this cleaning process and I've never had any problems.
- - The ropes should be dried in the open air as-per washing instructions. Adding salt with the dye helps it fix to the fibres and the washing cycle after the dye cycle removes any excess dye. Once dry it should be colour fast.
can be dyed but it's a much more complex process. I don't dye synthetic ropes. Hempex
is our most popular rope and has that classic hemp-colour. If you would like a different colour then Cotton
ropes take pale colours the best, as Hemp
starts out with a golden yellow-brown colour and can alter the shade of pale dyes. Hemp takes darker dyes perfectly fine with only a slight colour shift.
I also sell the same braided synthetic rope that I often use in my photography. It's available in a few colours, Red and Black are most popular, it's currently the onlybraided synthetic rope
I sell. It's purchased to order as it's expensive rope and I run a very thin profit margin on it. I've tried a great many ropes of it's kind and this is the only one I use, though there are other retailers who specialise in ranges of synthetic ropes for bondage use.
- 1m is normally only used for very simple ties and for CBB/CBT
- 2.5m is for limb-ties such as a cuff-tie on a wrist or ankle, simple ties for tying wrists or ankles together, and short extensions.
- 5m is for more extensive limb-ties, simple body-ties such as a crotchrope, and extensions to bigger ties.
- 7.5m is the more traditional length for Japanese bondage, often a little short for full-body ties but commonly extended with multiple lengths in one tie.
- 10m is the standard length for most body-ties such as a Karada or a harness on the upper-torso or pelvis areas.
- 15m is the longest length you'd normally use, for complex ties using a single rope for neatness or full-body ties on a larger body.
- >15m is normally too long for practical use as it takes so long to pull-through but I can arrange any length up to 220m for most ropes if required.
I work in metres, for an approximation in feet multiply by 3. It's not necessary to work with precise lengths, but if you prefer your rope in exact feet I'm happy to arrange that for you.
- Laid Rope, usually three strands of fibres laid (or 'twisted') together, the traditional method of making ropes and is still popular today, see images below.
- Solid Braid rope weaves multiple strands together into a solid piece of rope.
- Tube Braid rope is more common and has outer fibres braided together into a tube, climbing rope and paracord are examples of this rope with an additional core, magicians rope is an example of this rope without a core.
- Hollow Tube is just the fibres woven into a tube and is hollow inside. Many cheap ropes are made this way, doesn't work well for bondage as it collapses in knots and generally doesn't look or feel good on the body.
- Braid-on-Laid, such as sash-cord, has a single laid rope with an outer braided tube.
- Braid-on-Multicore, such as paracord or climbing rope. The outer tube is designed to protect the load-bearing inner cores made from either loose single fibres or many 2 or 3 strand laid cores.
- Braid-on-Braid, such as the braided synthetic ropes I sell and use. The outer braided tube covers a solid braided core.
- Whipping is the way I finish all of my ropes. It involves using a fine cord or twine to wrap tightly around the ends of the rope to prevent the ends unravelling or fraying. This approach leaves a soft end.
- Melting is one approach for synthetic ropes. It has to be done very carefully to get a neat finish with no rough or sharp edges.
- Glue or Dip can be added to the cut end of a rope to stop it fraying also, though it can be messy and care must be taken to leave a smooth finish. Super glue and plasti-dip are most often used.
- Knots can be added to the end of ropes, such as a crown knot or thistle knot (I will be making a video on the thistle knot at some point), but just a simple overhand knot will work. They are used for a style of tying with shorter ropes where you will be often adding more rope. Care must be taken when handling to not flick the knot against a sensitive area as it can bruise. If you are making a flogger or multi-tail whip out of rope or cord then you may want to add one or more knot to the ends for effect.
- Splicing is another method of finishing the end of a rope. A back or end splice will give the lowest profile end whilst an eye-splice gives a useful loop to the end of a rope. It is possible to splice braided ropes but laid ropes are far easier to work with, and you normally use some whipping to secure the splice anyway.