Rope Types

Rope Types
  • Hempex is a lightweight synthetic rope that looks like Hemp, much easier to look after, just wash and hang to dry.
  • Hemp is the traditional choice, a natural-fibre rope that looks great but needs to be stretched then oiled after washing.
    While our hempex and cotton are sold off-the-role our hemp goes through a lot of processing before it's ready for use.
  • SuperSoft Hemp is our 6mm hemp that has been softened much further than the standard hemp, giving a much softer rope.
  • Cotton (white) is a popular rope due to it's softness and ease of care, wash as-for cotton clothing. Natural fibre but doesn't need oiling.
  • Cotton takes dye very well being an absorbant fibre that starts-off white. Hemp also dyes well but as it starts off as a darker goldy/yellowy/browny colour the dyed result is darker and may have a colour-cast on paler colours. We offer a dying service for cotton and hemp.
  • Synthetic ropes (other than Hempex) are also available, we sell but don't stock a great range of braid-on-braid synthetic ropes available in a limited number of colours.
Rope Thickness
  • 4mm is sometimes used for detail work, we used to be able to get a really nice 4mm hemp but we now need a new supplier for this, for synthetics paracord can be found elsewhere and is around this size, it can look amazing in decorative work but too thin for most preferences.
  • 6mm is the most popular thickness, that's what you will normally see on japanese-style bondage.
  • 8mm is more common in western bondage, looks better on men or larger ladies due to the slightly thicker rope.
  • 10mm+ is rarely used due to the thickness and weight, but we can special-order it. We do have some ~20mm and thicker ropes we use for some things in our photography occasionally.
Rope Lengths

  • 1m is normally only used for very simple ties such as CBB/CBT
  • 2.5m is for limb-ties such as a cuff-tie on a wrist or ankle, simple ties for tying wrists or ankles together, and short extensions.
  • 5m is for more extensive limb-ties, simple body-ties such as a crotchrope, and extensions to bigger tie.
  • 7.5m is the more traditional length for japanese bondage, often a little short for full-body ties but commonly extended with multiple lengths in one tie.
  • 10m is the standard length for most body-ties such as a karada or a harness on the upper-torso or pelvis areas.
  • 15m is the longest you'd normally use, for compex ties using a single rope for neatness or full-body ties on a larger body.
  • >15m is normally too long for practical use as it takes so long to pull-through but we can arrange any length up-to 220m for most ropes.
  • We work in meters, multiply by 3 for an approximation in feet, it's not necessary to work with precise lengths, and if you prefer your rope in exact feet we're happy to arrange that for you.
Rope Structure
  • Laid rope, usually three strands of fibers laid (or 'twisted') together, the traditional method of making ropes and still popular today, see images below.
  • Solid Braid rope weaves multiple strands together into a solid piece of rope.
  • Tube Braid rope is more common and has outer fibers braided together into a tube, climbing rope and paracord are examples of this rope with an additional core, magicians rope is an example of this rope without a core.
    Hollow Tube is just the fubers woven into a tube and is hollow inside, many cheap ropes are made this way, doesn't work well for bondage as it collapses in knots and generally doesn't look or feel good on the body.
    Braid-on-Laid, such as sash-cord, has a single laid rope with an outer braided tube.
    Braid-on-Multicore, such as paracord or climbing rope, the outer tube is designed to protect the load-bairing inner cores made from either loose single fibers or many 2 or 3 strand laid cores.
    Braid-on-Braid, such as the braided synthetic ropes we sell and use, the outer braided tube covers a solid braided core.
Rope Ends
  • Whipping is the way we finish all of our ropes, it involves using a fine cord or twine to wrap tightly around the ends of the rope to prevent the ends unravelling or fraying, this approach leaves a soft end.
  • Melting is one approach for synthetic ropes, it has to be done very carefully to get a neat finish with no rough or sharp edges.
  • Glue or Dip can be added to the cut end of a rope to stop it fraying also, though it can be messy and care must be taken to leave a smooth finish, super glue and plasti-dip are most often used.
  • Knots can be added to the end of ropes, such as a crown knot or thistle knot (we will be making a video on the thistle knot at some point) but just a simple overhand knot will work, useful for a style of tying with shorter ropes where you will be often adding more rope but care must be taken when handling to not flick the knot against a sensitive area as it can bruise, if you are making a flogger or multi-tail whip out of rope or cord then you may want to add one or more knot to the ends for effect.
  • Splicing is another method of finishing the end of a rope, a back or end splice will give the lowest-profile end or an eye-splice gices a useful loop to the end of a rope. It is possible to splice braided ropes but laid ropes are far easier to work with, and you normally use some whipping to secure the splice anyway.